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Day 21 - KWM 2024 This Is Not An Advent Calendar - Nikka From The Barrel

Posted on December 21, 2024

Day 21 — Nikka From The Barrel

by Evan

Japanese Whisky: So hot right now. Am I right? So controversial, too. Let’s taste a dram that is not immune to the controversy. Today we will take a look at the venerable and respected Nikka From The Barrel.

What is the controversy with Japanese Whisky? It has to do with how of much of it is actually Japanese Whisky – as in distilled in Japan – and how much of what is released as Japanese Whisky may not have actually been distilled in Japan. Some of it may have originally been distilled in other whisky making countries such as Scotland or Canada. Crazy, right? For a more in-depth look at this issue, here is a link to an article on the subject that was written by one of the most respectable whisky writers around. I have heard that he is super handsome, too. But that is beside the point.

What we should discuss first is how Japanese Whisky came to being, starting with one man, a little over a century ago.

That’s right. Japan has now been making whisky in the Scottish style for nearly a century, and that history all starts with Masataka Taketsuru. In 1918, Masataka was sent to Scotland from Japan to study Japanese whisky production. He already had a background in Chemistry and fermented food production and hailed from a family of sake brewers, so the thing he was missing was the distillation portion of making alcohol. During his two years in Scotland, he attended the University of Glasgow as a chemistry major and apprenticed at three distilleries; learning to us both pot stills and Coffey stills in whisky production. Longmorn distillery was the site of his first apprenticeship, which played a role in his development of Japanese whisky making later on. 

When Masataka travelled back to Japan in 1920, he brought with him a great deal of knowledge and ideas on whisky making. He also brought his Scottish wife Rita Cowan with him. He had proposed to Rita on the shores of Loch Lomond that spring.

Mastataka and Rita Taketsuru

For more information on the early inspirations of western-style liquor in Masataka Taketsuru’s life, take a look at this awesome post by Whiskey Richard of Nomunication.

Japan’s first whisky distillery was founded in 1924. Named Yamazaki, it resides near Kyoto. The distillery still operates and is owned by Beam Suntory. The distillery released the first completely Japanese Whisky in 1929. 

After Masataka’s 10-Year contract with Suntory finished, he went on to found the Yoichi Distillery in Hokkaido, and the company that would eventually become Nikka. Yoichi distillery released its first whisky in 1940. Today, Suntory and Nikka are the two largest whisky-making companies in Japan, and also very much competitors. I like to think of it as the Super Nintendo vs Sega Genesis battle, but for grownups. At least for immature grownups like myself.

Both own distilleries in Scotland as well. Nikka owns Ben Nevis Distillery. Suntory owns the Ardmore, Auchentoshan, Bowmore, Glen Garioch, and Laphroaig Distilleries as well as being part owner in the North British Grain Distillery. Another Japanese Company – Takara Shuzo – owns Tomatin Distillery.

Within North America, Nikka doesn’t own any distilleries, but Suntory does. Jim Beam, Maker’s Mark, and also Alberta Distillers right here in Calgary are owned by Suntory. Kirin — another big Japanese player in alcoholic beverages – owns Four Roses Distillery in Kentucky.

Within Japan, Nikka owns Yoichi Distillery and The Miyagikyo Distillery. Suntory owns the Yamazaki and Hakushu Distilleries as well as the Chita Grain Distillery. Fully owned by Asahi Brewers, Nikka is in the midst of celebrating its 90th anniversary this year.

Nikka Whisky From The Barrel was first released in 1985. Here is what Nikka itself says about the whisky:

“Nikka From The Barrel is a blended whisky which was released in 1985. The development of this expression started with an aim to deliver full flavors and richness of whisky like "from the barrel", which only blenders can sniff and taste. The secret behind its gorgeous flavor is the unique combination of complex blending, higher ABV 51.4% and "marriage" process.

The iconic square bottle reflects its concept "a small block of whisky" and embodies the intense and rich flavors of the whisky inside. Long after its launch, this bottle is still timeless and recognized for its ultimate simplicity.”

Timeless bottle and a small block of whisky indeed! I am not a packaging nerd when it comes to whisky – I am far more interested in the liquid actually in the package – but I enjoy the minimalistic, stripped down style that the Nikka Whisky From the Barrel bottle offers. I also appreciate it always being bottled at 51.4% ABV, or 90 British proof.

But is this bottle truly a Japanese Whisky? According to the company that makes it, no it is not.

The above is a picture directly from Nikka.com, showing their description from Nikka From The Barrel.

Here is another post from Whisky Unplugged on Nikka From The Barrel not being Japanese.

So what non-Japanese ingredients are in this whisky? My guess is that it contains whisky from Ben Nevis Distillery in Scotland, which Nikka also owns.

Regardless of what makes up this non-Japanese but still from Japan Whisky, what should matter is if it is any good. It has a lengthy history of receiving glowing reviews from whisky lovers the world ‘round. But what will we think? Let’s find out!

Nikka Whisky From The Barrel – 51.4%

Evan’s Tasting Note

Nose: Milk chocolate, black coffee, peaches and cream, dates, blackberries, and a touch of molasses.

Palate: Creamy and chocolate driven with a touch of spice and smoke. More blackberry and coffee notes along with rich caramel, apple strudel and nougat.

Finish: Silky smooth. More milk chocolate, plus demerara sugar with a touch of warming ginger and spice on the soft and clean fade.

Comment: Elegance is the name of the game here. Regardless of what is Japanese and what is not Japanese in this whisky, it is a silky smooth and dangerously drinkable dram — even at 51.4%.

Kanpai!
Evan

Playing catch-up on our 2024 This Is Not An Advent Calendar?

You can find the rest of the blog posts here!

This entry was posted in Whisky, Tastings, Whisky Calendars, Tastings - Online Tasting, KWM 2024 Not An Advent Calendar Tastings

 

 

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