Going Natural Wine Club - April 2022
Posted on April 12, 2022
Milan Nestarec, whom the company is named after, was born into a wine making family in a small Czeck winemaking village. His father during this time worked at a German vine nursery, and with the skills learned over this time period which include not only agricultural techniques, but also how to fix secondhand machinery, his family began to purchase some vineyards.
When speaking about his wine Milan prefers to use the word “normal” over anything else. He believes that labels such as “natural” and “low intervention” tend to be a bit gimmicky when it comes to the sales of said wines. The whole process of winemaking in his eyes is to show off the grapes and terroir to the best of his abilities without any help from pesticides, herbicides, and industrial fertilizer.
The wine itself, Nach, named after the Czech word for Purple, is Milan's attempt to show that the winemaking region where he’s located can produce high quality reds. In the past locals in Morovia have said that the area doesn’t receive enough sun to produce anything of quality (Referencing medium to full bodied reds from warmer regions). Milan has flipped this idea on its head by focusing on what the region does well instead of focusing on what it can’t do, this wine is the end result. Being a blend of Pinot Noir, Blaufrankish, and St.Laurent, all grown in a cooler climate, and aged in 3000L neutral oak barrels. The end result is a bright, refreshing, high acid red that is very very drinkable. The idea behind the bottle was an ode to Milan’s childhood where he remembers buying juice in the same containers under a crown cap. I personally feel as though Milan has accomplished his goal, producing a red that almost all people will like, especially with a light chill on a hot day.
Eli's Tasting Notes:
In the glass, it has a cloudy ruby colour to it.
On the nose, an energetic bouquet of cherry blossom, rhubarb, slate, and fresh strawberries hit first. As you delve into the glass more, Nightshade, Blanched beets, and Cranberries reveal themselves as well. Reminds me of making a summer salad on a lazy afternoon.
On the palate, medium acidity and light tannins keep the Strawberry and rhubarb notes at the forefront of the palate. Slate, cranberries, and raspberries develop on the palate as you sip. On the finish an earthy beet note keeps the finish going on and on. Like picking fruits and veggies on a cool August morning small farm in rural BC.
Starting in 2005, Csaba Zsirai, who was a successful entrepreneur at the time, decided to fulfil his dreams of becoming a winemaker by over time buying 18 hectares of vineyards in three different regions of Hungary. Unfortunately, he passed away in 2011. His daughters Petra and Kata Zsirai took over the winery after his passing and have been doing their best to produce wines that would make their father proud.
Their approach towards winemaking was instilled on them by their late father. Let nature do its thing with as little human interference as possible, they avoid using any chemicals in the vineyards and don’t add any yeast during the fermentation process. They are doing their best to show that Hungary can do more than just Tokaji Aszu when it comes to world class wines by only working with local grape varietals and traditional techniques.
The wine itself uses the same varietal and comes from the same region that makes Tokaji Aszu, a world famous dessert wine that was first mentioned in the year 1571. Mentions of vineyards being present in the region date back as far as 1252, making the winemaking region almost 800 years old. This grape varietal is called Furmint, and when used to make more conventional table wines tends to have a bright acidity and notes of fresh citrus and stone fruits. They also usually tend to have a minerality that pushes through especially on the finish. This is a beautiful wine that pays homage to a historic region while using traditional techniques during the growing and winemaking process.
Eli's Tasting Notes:
In the glass, it shows a light green/yellow hue.
On the nose, green apple slices, wet stones, peach blossoms, and diesel fuel leap out of the glass. Once it airs off a bit, gold cherry, crushed birch leaves, and lime zest push through.
On the palette, a high and bright acidity makes it so that the green apple, lime juice, and wet river stones make the mouth salivate. Peach blossoms and birch leaves mellow out the higher acidity notes from earlier, while gold cherries and a touch of petrol round everything out. Makes you think of riding a tractor through a citrus and apple harvest.
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